Costume plays a vital role in shaping the narrative of any film or TV show. It conveys essential details about a character’s persona, societal status, and the era portrayed in the story. Within a production, the costume department takes charge of designing, crafting, sourcing, and providing all attire for actors and extras. Every element, from shoes to jewellery, headpieces to undergarments, is meticulously considered and either purchased, hired or tailor-made, especially in the context of historical pieces.
Understanding the Operations of the Costume Department
The costume designer leads the costume department and is responsible for designing the look of all characters, including extras. The costume designer and costume supervisor start before other members of the department so they can research the production requirements, generate script breakdowns and begin the budget process.
The costume designer crafts a comprehensive visual reference with costume sketches, references, mood boards and breakdowns derived from their script analysis. These visual aids play a crucial role in attaining a unified aesthetic vision. They are pivotal in involving directors, production designers, hair and makeup artists, and actors in character development.
Meanwhile, the costume supervisor oversees the department’s financial aspects and operational logistics, including staff management, material procurement, and workflow coordination. Supporting the supervisor, the costume coordinator handles administrative tasks like paperwork and data entry, which are essential for budget control.
In large-scale projects, an Assistant Costume Designer (ACD) works closely with the Costume Designer, assisting in research, fittings, and conveying the consistent visual theme to team members. Custom-made costumes may be required based on project requirements. A costume workroom is set up to produce the costumes and duplicates needed for stunts and body doubles and to replicate costumes for action scenes or other special effects.
A skilled team of buyers, cutters, and sewers is engaged to produce the costumes, with additional artisans brought in for specialised costume work. For sizable productions, a workroom supervisor ensures timely costume production in a well-organised work environment.
Adhering to the shooting schedule, the costume supervisor coordinates the timely delivery of costumes on set, with the offset key costumer acting as a bridge between the design and supervisory teams. The offset key ensures that costumes are ready for fittings, alterations, and final touches before filming commences.
During filming, the onset key costumer oversees the on-set crew and the maintenance of main cast costumes. The standby team ensures each costume’s appearance and functionality on screen, managing continuity and facilitating special effects and stunts. They troubleshoot in real time, caring for the costumes and the actors’ comfort throughout the production.
Typical roles in the Costume Department:
A comprehensive list of positions in the department provides an insight into the entire department with detailed descriptions of each position and their responsibilities, which can be found on the Costume Department Role Descriptions for Screen resource.
Design Team: Costume designer, assistant costume designer (ACD), buyer, illustrator, textile artist, graphic designer, 3D artist.
Costume Office Management and Logistics: Costume supervisor, assistant costume supervisor, coordinator, office assistant, key offset costumer, costume runner.
Costume Workroom: Workroom supervisor, cutter, sewer, tailor, milliner, jeweller, shoemaker.
Speciality Costume: Lead speciality costume supervisor, sculptor, metal fabricator, mould maker, leather craftsperson, and costume props.
Art Finish: Key art finisher, art finisher, assistant art finisher.
On Set: Key on-set costumer, cast truck coordinator, principal cast standby, costume standby, assistant costume standby, on-set runner.
Background Extras: Crowd supervisor, crowd truck coordinator, crowd standby, standby dailies.
Stunt Costume: Stunt costume coordinator, stunt costume standby, assistant stunt costume standby.
Second Unit: Second unit truck coordinator, second unit standby.
Entry-level roles in the Costume Department:
Costume Design Team
- Design assist/PA – (not to be mistaken for assistant costume designer – ACD), no experience required.
- Graphic designer (not a beginner pathway but a change of industry choice).
- 3D artist (not a beginner pathway but a change of industry choice).
- Crowd costume assistant – no experience required, but some costume experience is helpful.
Costume Office Management & Logistics
- Runner – pickups, drop-offs, must have full licence and over 25 for insurance – no experience required.
- Costume assistant – generally has some sewing or costume background, but not essential (mainly assists supervisor and coordinator).
- Costume accounts assistant (assists coordinator with timesheets, data input, etc.)
- Office PA – no experience required.
Workroom
- Costume assistant (workroom) – no experience required, but handy if you can sew.
- Seamstress – maker/sewer – a prerequisite of training or competent sewer.
- Junior art finisher – no experience required.
- Speciality costume maker assistant – leather, costume props, mould fabrication, metal fabrication – (some experience necessary).
On Set
- Costume standby dailies – (some experience necessary).
- Main cast truck assistant – (some experience necessary.
- Crowd costume assistant – (some experience necessary).
- Onset runner – no experience required.